Dr Charlotte Russell, Clinical Psychologist & Founder
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There is nothing more epic and spectacular than a trip that includes Rome and the Amalfi coast. This is truly a once in a lifetime itinerary that would be great for a big celebration or milestone trip. In fact I took this trip to celebrate Mr Travel Psychologist’s 40th birthday and so it’s fully tried and tested with a verified ‘epic’ stamp from me (and him!).
This itinerary is perfect if:
- You want a special trip and don’t mind splurging a little
- You enjoy history, culture and beauty
- You want to visit three very different places on one epic trip
- You enjoy great food
Things to do in Rome
I recommend that you spend 3 nights in Rome. This means that you get two full days of exploring as well as some time on your arrival day.
If it’s your first time in Rome, you may realise that there is a lot to see. It’s never going to be possible to see everything a huge city has to offer in such a short time, so my advice to you is to prioritise what’s most important to you. This is better than trying to see everything and not having the chance to take it all in or to relax.
Here are my favourites:
Visit the Colosseum
Visiting the Colosseum is an absolute must when visiting Rome as it’s the symbol of the city. It is one of the Modern Seven Wonders of the World, announced in 2007. It is easy to see why; the sheer scale of it is like nothing I’ve ever seen before.
When visiting it is essential to buy your tickets in advance and you will choose a specific entrance time. Your ticket will also allow you to access the Roman Forum, Palatine and Imperial Forum for the following 24 hours so is good value.
Make a wish at the Trevi fountain
The Trevi fountain is one of the most famous and visited sights in the world and for good reason. It stands over 26 metres tall, and 49 metres wide – in other words, its massive!
It was constructed in the Renaissance period was Rome’s only source of water for over a century. The fountain later underwent a dramatic transformation in the early 18th century, within the Baroque period.
It is tradition to throw a coin into the fountain when you visit- do this backwards and throw the coin over your left shoulder. This is said to ensure that you will revisit the Eternal city one day!
Have dinner and drinks Trastevere
Trastevere is a bohemian district in Rome with countless bars and restaurants. It is a pretty place to visit during the day but it really does come alive at night.
We found the food all over Rome to be very good but in Trastevere it was accompanied by a bustling atmosphere and a sense of the distinct coming alive once the sun set. This included street performers and the hustle and bustle of people out for a lovely evening. For the best places to eat, check out this wonderful guide from a fellow blogger; The best restaurants in Trastevere.
Visit Castel Sant’Angelo
Castel Sant’ Angelo has a rich history having been a mausoleum, a Papal residence, a Fortress and a prison. It’s changing uses have reflected how it has withstood the test of time.
Today it is a museum and a genuinely interesting place to look around. We visited on a very hot September day and it was super-humid climbing all of the stairs. However it was totally worth it because the view over the city from the top was just breath-taking.
As well as enjoying the views, there is a museum internally and some highly decorated rooms that you can explore.
Eat at Ristorante Margot
Located in the Prati district, Margot Restaurant was our favourite meal in Rome. It also happened to be a stone’s throw from our hotel, more on this later. The restaurant which serves traditional Roman food with a modern twist. They have an outside area decorated with fairy lights, which was very pretty and romantic.
Visit the Cat sanctuary
Located in the Torre Argentina, Rome’s Cat Sanctuary is a small but lovely place to visit. Regular readers will know I am a huge cat lover, so it was nice to be able to find out more about the brilliant work they do. Many of the cats have disabilities and you can see that they are well cared for.
You can visit each day from 12 – 4.30pm. Don’t plan to spend a lot of time here as it is a small place to visit, and during the daytime it is likely that the cats will not be at their most active. You can make a donation or there are a few souvenir items you can buy in support.
Listen to live music at the Jazz Café
The Jazz Cafe Roma is a great little place with live music from 9.30-11.30pm each night. The musicians and singer performing when we visited were just fantastic and we really enjoyed the vibe. They served a good selection of drinks and dinner if you want to eat here.
Where to stay in Rome
I would highly recommend Domus Terenzio in the Prati district. This is a fairly small guest house in a much larger building, which is a common set up across Italian cities. We found the room to be beautiful and very spacious. Breakfast was plentiful with friendly staff. There is also a small courtyard garden which is lovely to sit out in the warmer evenings (which is most of the year round in Rome!).
The other advantage is that it is well located for evening activities. Margot restaurant is just around the corner and the Jazz café is around a twenty minute walk. Trastevere is around a 40-minute walk or a short taxi ride.
Domus Terenzio is very close to the Vatican so is a good choice if you plan on visiting. We navigated mainly by walking or using buses to attractions which were further away (including the Colosseum). It was easy to navigate the buses using google maps. You can buy a 48-hour travel pass which is valid across the buses and metro system.
Day 3: Train to Naples
There are high speed trains connecting the two cities so the journey is only around 1 hour and 10 minutes. During this time, you can start to prepare yourself psychologically for the big differences between the two cities. You can book your train tickets here.
Naples is an energetic city that is full of life. I’ve visited here twice and have enjoyed it each time. There is no getting away from the fact that Naples is a little rough around the edges, but it certainly has energy and lots of great things to do.
I would not use phrases like ‘lovely’ and ‘pretty’ to describe Naples. However this does not mean that I wouldn’t recommend visiting the city, it’s just that it is important that you are aware of what to expect before you book. It is not somewhere I would visit if I wanted a pretty or relaxing break. However, you will get this in bucketloads on the final leg of your trip.
Things to do in Naples
On your arrival day I’m going to suggest that you visit these 3 places, which were my highlights on Naples. This will leave a full day tomorrow to do a special day trip. Back to today though:
San Martino Monastery
Certosa e Museo di San Martino is a monastery with lovely views over Naples. It was my favourite Naples attraction both times I’ve visited and is only around 6 euros to enter, which I think is a bargain!
The monastery was built in the 14th century and has been adorned by various artists and architects over the years. There is a small garden outside that is nice to explore, but the views are really the best part.
To get there take the funicular from Montesanto station, which is quite a fun experience in itself!
Underground Naples
Deep under the historic centre of Naples is a subterranean world, and Underground Naples gives you the chance to explore this. You will go down to around 40 metres under the city and will get a very interesting tour with information about the history of the area.
It’s something a little bit different and I will definitely remember it! Our guide was engaging too and made it enjoyable.
It’s probably worth me saying that I am not super comfortable with confined spaces but I found it ok. In case you are worried like I was, there is a narrow tunnel, but this is optional. There are not any super narrow spaces and you don’t have to crawl at any point, it’s all walkable.
The Spanish Quarter
The Quartieri Spagnoli of Naples is a vibrant district full of narrow streets and character. Until recently, it was considered a dangerous area due to the historic links to crime and the general dark underworld. However in recent years it has become a tourist hotspot and is no longer considered unsafe.
Here you will find restaurants where you can eat great food with motorbikes riding past! This may not sound particularly appealing, but it is a quintessential experience in Naples!
Day 4: Day trip to Vesuvius and Pompeii
Mount Vesuvius is an active volcano that towers over Naples. In years gone by it’s said that it was a reminder to locals that life is short. I understand that this is one of the things that contributed to Naples’ reputation as a party city. In any case, a visit to Vesuvius is a must for any visit to Naples.
We decided to visit as part of a full day tour of Mount Vesuvius and Pompeii. This was a great option as it included transport and a very knowledgeable guide in Pompeii.
We were first taken to Vesuvius via minibus. We were able to trek up to the top in our own time, rather than as a group, which I appreciated. The views were spectacular and it was cool to see the steam coming from the caldera! The hike is fine if you have a reasonable level of fitness but is a little rocky so ensure you wear suitable footwear.
After Vesuvius we went to a pizza restaurant as a group, which was included in the tour. It was nice eating with other people and the food was good. On our trip there were mostly couples and a few solo travellers.
In the afternoon we headed to Pompeii, were we spent around 2 hours. Our tour guide Maria was incredibly knowledgeable and we all had headsets so that we could hear her well whilst exploring. Obviously the history of Pompeii is super interesting and there is so much to learn. I found 2 hours to be a good amount of time here. If you are super enthusiastic about history you might want to spend longer, but for most people I think the tour would be sufficient.
Where to stay in Naples
I’ve stayed in a couple of central hotels in Naples that I would recommend.
Firstly In Centro B&B which really is as central as it gets and is just off the main high street. As is the case with many B&Bs in Italy, this is a small property located within a larger shared building. I found the host Roberta to be very friendly and helpful. The rooms were modern, clean and spacious, and there is also a shared kitchen for guests to use.
My hotel second recommendation is Le Corte del Re which again is in a very central location. This is a similar set up, with the hotel being located within a larger building but this time more of a historic building, possibly 1930s or 1940s. This rooms here were perfectly clean and comfortable.
Day 5: Ferry to Positano
It’s necessary to book your ferry tickets in advance as this is a popular route. I usually use Direct Ferries to book in advance. The crossing takes around 2 hours.
One thing to note is that you may have to pay extra for suitcases. We have never encountered this on ferries in Europe before, so it was a surprise for us. If needed, you can buy these for a few euros at the kiosk for your ferry operator on the port. They will give you a ticket to attach to the luggage.
When you arrive in Positano there is no way that you will want to carry your suitcases to the hotel yourself. Thankfully there will be porters waiting at the port and you can give them the name of your hotel or apartment and they will drop off your bags for small fee. Take it from me that it is worth it! Positano has dramatic and beautiful views but all of the steps are the price you will pay for this.
Where to stay in Positano
I’m mentioning the hotel first on this leg because it’s such a crucial part of making this leg of the trip extra special. We stayed in Hotel Dimora Fornillo and I couldn’t recommend it enough. It was beautiful and had a timeless elegance to it. It is a family run hotel and so isn’t super modern, but we loved this as it felt really authentic and traditional.
The real bonus of this hotel is that it has the most amazing location and views, but without the hefty price tags that come with many hotels in Positano.
I will never forget the beautiful breakfast in the garden and how looked after we felt. Drinks on out little terrace in the evening were also very special.
Things to do in Positano
When we visited Positano we did not ‘do’ a lot. If you have followed the itinerary to this point, you will probably also be feeling like you want some time to relax. You will also want to spend a lot of time on your hotel terrace enjoying those epic views!
If you stay in Hotel Dimora Fornillo you can easily walk down into Positano town. Here you will see the quant and colourful buildings and stop for a coffee. There are also lots of shops selling local produce and souvenirs.
From the hotel you can also take a short walk down to Fornillo Beach, a stony beach which is great for swimming. We spent an afternoon here and loved it.
You may be wondering why I’m talking about walking everywhere. Well, if you didn’t know, the roads are very narrow in the Amalfi coast and parking is extremely limited. So, it’s really not a feasible option for everyone to rent a car and to drive around. There are public buses, but as you might imagine they get extremely busy with tourists. For these reasons, we just decided to stay local and not travel around whilst we were staying in Positano.
In terms of restaurants, there were two that really stood out for us. These are both great options for dinner:
Firstly Mirage Restaurant is perfect for an extra special meal. Like my hotel recommendation, it has a timeless elegance to it. It’s the kind of place where you could imagine film stars from years gone by enjoying a meal. The view over Positano from here was spectacular and the food was perfect. It was also a very short 8 minute walk from the hotel, which is a big consideration once you experience all of the steps!
My other favourite was Il Grottino Azzurro which is a simpler and more relaxed option, but just as good. The food was really the star of the show and was absolutely delicious. It’s also a mere 13 minute walk from the hotel, although mostly uphill on the way there. This does have the advantage of an easier walk back to the hotel at the end of your meal.
Getting back to the airport
You can book a private transfer from Positano to Naples airport. Yes this is a costly option, but it prevents you having to stay an extra night in Naples before flying home. As someone who has travelled across Europe by ferry, I’d always suggest avoiding booking your ferry on the same day as your flight home. The risk of delays and cancellations is too high and this is not an issue with taxi transfers.
When is the best time to travel from Rome to the Amalfi coast?
The Amalfi coast is epic and beautiful and attracts visitors from all around the World. This means that it can get very crowded, especially in summer. We visited in late September and felt that this was a good time of year. It was still warm and a little crowded, but certainly less so on both fronts than July and August.
What you need to book in advance for this epic itinerary
Nights 1-3: Rome staying at Domus Terenzio (3 nights)
Nights 3 & 4: Naples staying at In Centro B&B (2 nights)
Day trip in Naples: Full day tour of Mount Vesuvius and Pompeii
Nights 5 & 6: Positano staying at Hotel Dimora Fornillo (2 nights)
Ferry back to Naples or a private transfer.
