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Split is one of those cities that feels effortlessly alive. It’s not polished or postcard-perfect in the way Dubrovnik is, and that’s exactly why it’s so compelling. Built around the ancient walls of Diocletian’s Palace, Split is a place where history isn’t just preserved, it’s lived in. You’ll find locals sipping coffee in Roman courtyards, laundry fluttering above medieval alleyways, and the Adriatic sparkling just beyond the promenade.

It’s a city break that offers contrast: sun-drenched relaxation alongside gritty charm, ancient ruins beside lively bars, and a pace that invites you to slow down and tune in. For me, Split felt like a city that didn’t need to impress. This guide will walk you through how to spend 3 nights in this city, with recommendations that balance culture, food and some fantastic day trips.

Split is perfect if:

  • You love cities with layers — Roman ruins, Venetian architecture, and modern Croatian culture all coexisting in one walkable space.
  • You’re drawn to places that feel lived-in rather than curated
  • You want easy access to epic day trips to enjoy nature and the beautiful islands nearby

What to do on a city break to Split

For an epic day exploring Split, start with a Free Walking Tour which starts at 10am, just outside the palace walls. This lasts around 2 hours and is a great introduction to the history of Split, and you will be given information on all of the main sights. You’ll find out all about how Split is built within the walls of a palace that was meant to be a retirement home for Diocletian during the Roman empire. It’s a story that’s pretty unique, just like the city itself.

Our guide Marija was a history graduate and was great at making the tour both informative and fun. Most people tipped at around 10 euros each if you are unsure, but some tipped more than this.

After the tour we chose to visit the Bell Tower and to walk up to the top for the spectacular view. If you stay in the apartment I’m going to recommend later you’ll also get a great view of your own roof terrace from here.

In the afternoon, head over to the Green market just outside the city walls. Here you will see local people getting their produce, and lots of different tourist stalls if you want to get some  souvenirs. At the edge of the market you will find a great option for lunch, if you eat pork that is. See the next section for more details.

After lunch you may want to take a walk up to Marjan Forest Park, which is a beautiful green space that overlooks the city. If you have already walked up to the bell tower today, your legs might not thank me. However it really is a beautiful place to spend an afternoon and has great views over the city. There are also plenty of benches so your legs can have a rest.

Yes, I know what you might be thinking: This is a totally full on day, and it’s true but there’s a reason for this. Covering the main sights on one day means that you will get the opportunity to try one or two of the day trips that I’m going to recommend later. If you prefer a more relaxing break, you can spread these activities over two days.

Bars and restaurants

You can’t beat the coffee culture here in Split. Nowhere is this more visible than along the harbour, where locals gather at sunlit cafés with small cups of strong coffee, sometimes for hours. This is the best place to take in the culture of the local people, who call themselves Splićani. They are known for being witty, sociable, and fiercely proud of their heritage. There’s a strong sense of local identity, often expressed through humour, storytelling, and a bit of swagger.

For your lunch option, Gudin Pigeria is a cool little restaurant on the edge of the market. I liked it because it was totally unexpected and like nowhere I’ve eaten before. It captures the spirit and identity of Split beautifully: Food and drinks are served on the heavy-duty market tables with mismatched furniture.

We shared some Ćevapi which are small, skinless grilled sausages made from minced beef or lamb, typically served with flatbread and chopped onions. The dish included a dollop of  kajmak, a creamy, slightly tangy dairy spread. Though originally rooted in Ottoman culinary traditions, ćevapi has become a beloved staple across the Balkans. I enjoyed the food in this place and it was totally memorable, so I’d recommend it with the caveat that you’re probably not going to want to eat for the rest of the day!

For a memorable evening meal in Split, I’m recommending Bokeria Kitchen and Wine which completely blew me away. It’s one of Split’s most stylish spots. I had the seabass, and it was beautifully cooked, fresh, flavourful, and elegantly presented. You will see from the photo how much I enjoyed it! The setting is vibrant and chic, with a wine list that pairs perfectly with the Mediterranean-inspired menu. Ideal for a celebratory evening or when you want to treat yourself.

For drinks, The Daltonist is a great option just outside the city walls. Serving craft beer, cocktails and free snacks during happy hour, this is a great little find.

Day trips from Split

Krka Waterfalls

Today I’m recommending a visit to Krka waterfalls and wine tasting. This tour is a perfect way to end an incredible trip!

The bus journey to the falls is around 2 hours but totally worth it. You’ll be dropped off in the National Park and will have plenty of time exploring on your own. Sometimes the fear with these kinds of tours is that you’ll be in a massive group and will need to stick together, which wasn’t the case at all.

When you’d finished exploring the park, you board a small ferry to a nearby town where you’ll have more free time. There is the option of swimming at the lake beach, climbing to a small fortress or going for a coffee. We walked up to the fortress and still had time for a drink on the beautiful port.

After that it’s a short bus ride to a family run winery for a tasting. If you want to you can buy a charcuterie plate to go with your testing, which was reasonable. The wines were nice and it was a lovely experience, and was totally worth it for the price of the tour.

Blue cave and Hvar

No city break to Split would be complete without getting out on to the Adriatic sea for the day. When I visited Split, I had done a full 10-day itinerary which included Hvar. Thankfully even if you are on a city break you can still get the amazing experience of visiting Hvar and the blue caves by taking this full day trip from Split.

As well as being out on the water, you’ll get to spend 3 hours in Hvar. This gives you enough time to sit in St Stephen’s square and have a coffee, and enjoy the Mediterranean charm of this beautiful island.

 

You will also have time to walk up to the Fortress for panoramic views across Hvar. Yes it’s a long way up, but it’ll be well worth it when you see that view!

Where to stay in Split

We stayed in the Banica apartments which were right at the heart of the old town. I’ve already mentioned the roof terrace which overlooks the bell tower, and is probably the main highlight of staying here. The room was large and comfortable and surprisingly quiet given it’s excellent location. There was also a shared kitchen which was handy for making a coffee in the morning.

There are quite a few steps up to the rooms, but when we arrived a man from the hotel was there and offered to carry my suitcase. It was pretty big, as we had travelled over Croatia at the time. I’ve never seen anyone pick up a big case like that and carry it up three flights of stairs as if it were a small backpack. This was a reminder that the people are strong here, both physically and in spirit!

When is the best time to visit Split?

Croatia is a popular destination and gets very busy in the summer months. So, there is a balance to be struck between having good weather and visiting when it is relatively quiet (unless you like big crowds that is!).

We found that May was a great time to visit and I hear from locals that September is similar. The weather was great 90% of the time, and it was quiet enough to enjoy exploring without it feeling overly busy.

Last but not least

If you’re feeling hedonistic: You will find delicious ice cream options all over Split. My favourite was Aroma gelato which offers a delicious pistachio option as well as interesting flavours such as lemon and basil.

If you want a sense of accomplishment: Take the walk up to Marjan Hill. You won’t regret it when you see the views from there.

Reasons to be optimistic: The story of the birth of the city can remind us of the possibility for reinvention. The first city inhabitants were actually displaced people fleeing from the fall of the Roman city of Salona. The exiled inhabitants resettled inside the ruins of Emperor Diocletian’s Palace, just a few kilometres away. What had once been a retirement home for a Roman emperor became a living city, repurposed and reimagined by refugees determined to rebuild their lives. This act of transformation, turning imperial stone into communal shelter, is a powerful symbol of Split’s enduring spirit.