Dr Charlotte Russell, Clinical Psychologist & Founder
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Siem Reap is best known as the gateway to Angkor Wat, but the city has far more to offer than most travellers expect. I arrived assuming this stop would be all about the temples; a necessary, iconic part of any Southeast Asia itinerary. Instead found a city with its own charm, rhythm, and depth and it ended up being my favourite leg of the entire trip.
What struck me first was how beautiful Siem Reap is in its own right: the colonial‑era architecture, the tree‑lined streets, the soft pastels of the shopfronts, and the gentle blend of old and new. Cambodia’s history has shaped the city in ways that feel distinct within the region, and you sense that layered story as you wander; ancient temples and French‑influenced villas, early sunrises giving way to warm, unhurried evenings.
If you’re planning a visit, Siem Reap deserves more than a quick stopover. With three full days and four nights, you can experience the temples at a comfortable pace while also enjoying the food, culture, and atmosphere that make this city so memorable. I’m sharing the itinerary that worked perfectly for me, so you can make the most of your time here too.
Full day 1: Private Sunrise Tour of Angkor Wat
If you’re going to travel all the way to Siem Reap, it’s worth opting for a private sunrise tour of Angkor Wat. It’s an early start, but watching the first light rise behind the temple’s iconic towers is one of those rare travel moments that feels both surreal and grounding. A private tour makes all the difference here — not in a luxury sense, but in the freedom it gives you to move at your own pace, linger where you want, and step away from the crowds when you need to.
After exploring Angkor Wat, our tour continued to Ta Prohm, often called the “Tomb Raider temple.” It’s every bit as atmospheric as you’d imagine: giant tree roots wrapped around ancient stone, shafts of light cutting through the jungle canopy, and a sense of nature slowly reclaiming the site.
We were guided by a national guide, which in Cambodia requires a degree‑level education. That depth of training really shows. He didn’t just explain the temples, he wove in stories about Khmer history, Buddhism, the impact of French colonialism, and the cultural shifts shaping Cambodia today. It added so much richness to the day and helped us understand the sites as living, layered places rather than just beautiful ruins.
A long day, yes, but absolutely worth it, and the perfect way to begin your time in Siem Reap.
Dinner: Jomno
For dinner, I’m recommending Jomno, a beautiful modern take on Khmer cuisine that feels both contemporary and deeply rooted in Cambodian tradition. It’s stylish without being showy, and the menu is full of thoughtful interpretations of classic dishes. I had the fish amok, one of Cambodia’s most traditional and beloved meals, and it was exceptional — delicate, fragrant, and perfectly balanced. The service was warm and attentive too, which made the whole evening feel relaxed and special. A lovely way to end your first day in Siem Reap, and a great introduction to the richness of Khmer cooking.
Day 2: Exploring Siem Reap city
After the intensity and early start of Angkor Wat, day two is all about slowing down and getting to know Siem Reap itself — its gardens, its history, and the quieter stories that sit alongside the temples.
Morning: Botanical Gardens & APOPO centre
Start with a gentle stroll through the Angkor botanical gardens, a peaceful, beautifully maintained space that’s completely free to enter. It’s an easy, grounding way to ease into the day. There’s a small café overlooking the tropical plants — the kind of spot where you can sit with a coffee, listen to the birds, and take in the lush greenery before the heat builds. It’s simple but genuinely lovely.
From here, it’s a short walk to the APOPO visitor centre , one of the most unexpectedly moving experiences of the trip. APOPO trains “HeroRATs” to detect landmines, an extraordinary piece of humanitarian work that’s both innovative and deeply impactful in Cambodia. The tour lasts around an hour and is incredibly engaging: you learn about the history of landmines in the region, meet the rats, and see a live demonstration of how they work. It’s thoughtful, educational, and inspiring.
Lunch: Korko 1979
After the tour, take a short walk or hop in a tuk tuk to Kor Ko 1979 Restaurant, a beautiful colonial‑style restaurant that feels like stepping back into another era. High ceilings, soft colours, and a calm, elegant atmosphere make it a perfect lunch stop. It’s a lovely way to round off a morning that blends nature, history, and culture in a really balanced way.
Afternoon: Pool time
After a morning of exploring Siem Reap’s gardens, history, and colonial charm, the afternoon is the perfect moment to slow down. The heat builds quickly here, and there’s something wonderfully restorative about heading back to your hotel, slipping into the pool, and letting the day soften around you. The hotel I’m recommending (more on this later) has a particularly lovely pool — leafy, calm, and exactly the kind of place where an hour easily becomes two.
Dinner: Haven
For your second evening in Siem Reap, I’m recommending HAVEN, a restaurant with a real heart behind it. It’s a social enterprise that trains disadvantaged local young people in hospitality, giving them skills, confidence, and long‑term opportunities in an industry that can genuinely change lives. We had a wonderful meal here, with warm, attentive service and dishes that felt thoughtful and full of flavour.
Day 3: Phnom Kulen National Park
For your third day in Siem Reap, I’m recommending a full day tour to Phnom Kulen National Park, which turned out to be very fun. It’s a complete change of pace from the temples, greener, cooler, more nature‑focused — and gives you a deeper sense of Cambodia beyond Angkor.
The tour takes you up into the holy mountain of Phnom Kulen, a place of huge cultural and spiritual significance for Cambodians. You’ll visit the River of a Thousand Lingas, where ancient carvings sit just beneath the flowing water.
A linga is a sacred symbol in Hinduism representing Shiva, one of the religion’s principal deities. Here these symbols are carved directly into the riverbed so that the flowing water becomes part of the blessing; a way of sanctifying the river as it moves downstream.
You’ll also climb up to see the giant reclining Buddha, one of the most important pilgrimage sites in the country. The Buddha is carved directly into the sandstone at the summit of Preah Ang Thom. It’s considered the largest reclining Buddha in Cambodia, and its elevated position above the forest canopy makes it feel even more imposing.
Make sure to have some small notes to use on the trip; you will need these to tip the locals to look after your shoes when you enter the temple, and for any snacks you might want. You can also buy lotus flowers from the local villagers, to give as a gift to the Buddha.
Our group consisted of people from many different nationalities. Some people kept to themselves, which is totally fine. We enjoyed talking over lunch with a lovely couple from Australia and a friendly Brazilian guy who was travelling solo.
The day ends at the Kulen Waterfall, where you can swim, cool off, or simply sit and take in the jungle surroundings. It’s refreshing, beautiful, and a lovely contrast to the heat of the city. They even had lockers were that you could hire, which was lovely as we could all swim without worrying about our valuables.
The whole experience feels well‑paced and thoughtfully run — a great way to spend a day if you want something different.
Dinner: Joe’s Burgers
By our final night in Siem Reap, we were nine days into our trip, full of rice, noodles, curries, and all the beautiful flavours of Southeast Asia. At this point we were feeling hungry after our day trip and in need of some Western food; Joe’s Burger’s was the answer! It’s unfussy, friendly, and absolutely delivers on what you want it to: a proper, satisfying burger that tastes like home. After days of temple exploring, heat, and early starts, this place really hit the spot. A perfect final dinner before you move on to the next chapter of your adventure.
Final morning in Siem Reap
If you have longer to spend here there is plenty to do. We had a lunchtime flight so were fortunate enough to have time to visit The Bean Embassy. This place is lovely and has great coffee. Do check it out if you have time.
Where to Stay in Siem Reap
I’m recommending Peak Elite Boutique, which ended up being my favourite hotel of my entire 3 week trip. It strikes that perfect balance of comfort, style, and genuine warmth — the kind of place where everything just works, and the staff truly seem to care that you’re having a good stay. The rooms are beautifully kept, the atmosphere is calm, and it feels like a little sanctuary to return to after long days exploring temples or wandering the city.
The location is another huge plus. It’s an easy walk to all the dinner spots I’ve recommended. A brilliant base for 3 days in Siem Reap.
When is the best time to visit Siem Reap?
Siem Reap has two main seasons, dry and rainy, and the experience of visiting Angkor Wat changes dramatically depending on when you go. The most comfortable and popular time to visit is November to February, when the weather is cooler, humidity drops, and rainfall is minimal. These months offer the clearest skies, the most pleasant temple‑hopping conditions, and the best light for sunrise at Angkor Wat. We travelled in January and found the weather to be perfect for exploring; warm, but not too warm.
Temperatures rise sharply from March to May, bringing intense heat that can make long days at the temples feel draining. The rainy season runs from June to October, with heavy but often short bursts of rain.
Is it safe to visit Cambodia?
Safety is one of the most common questions travellers ask about Cambodia, and the most important starting point is always the same: check your own government’s travel advice before you go. Guidance can change quickly, and official updates will give you the most accurate picture of any risks, regional tensions, or areas to avoid.
When we visited, the UK government had issued specific advice relating to the Thai–Cambodia border, where a long‑running conflict had led to occasional flare‑ups. Travellers were advised to avoid a zone roughly 80km from the border, but this did not include Siem Reap. The city sits outside the area of concern, and day‑to‑day life there felt calm, welcoming, and geared towards tourism.
What struck me most was how many locals mentioned that visitor numbers had dropped because of the situation at the border — even though Siem Reap itself remained unaffected. It was a reminder that headlines don’t always reflect the lived reality on the ground, and that tourism plays a significant role in the livelihoods of people here.
In short, Cambodia can be a safe and rewarding place to visit, but it’s essential to stay informed, follow official advice, and make decisions that feel right for you.
Last but not least:
If you are feeling hedonistic – look no further than the Crème Brulee at Jomno. Mr Travel Psychologist called it ‘the best he’s ever had’. That’s quite the compliment!
If you want a sense of accomplishment – Climbing to the top level of Angkor Wat is one of those moments that stays with you long after you’ve left Cambodia. The steep, narrow staircase up to the Bakan Sanctuary feels like a small pilgrimage in itself; a slow, deliberate ascent that mirrors the temple’s original symbolism of rising towards the heavens.
Reasons to Be Optimistic
Cambodia’s recent history is undeniably tragic, and acknowledging that truth is essential to understanding the country today. But what stood out to me most while travelling here was just how much there is to feel hopeful about; how many people and organisations are quietly, steadily building a better future.
One of the most inspiring examples is APOPO, whose work with trained rats is helping to clear landmines across the country. Their efforts don’t just prevent injuries; they return land to communities so it can be farmed, lived on, and used to support local livelihoods. It’s the kind of progress that ripples outward; safety creating opportunity, opportunity creating stability.
There are also incredible social enterprises like Haven and The Bean Embassy, both of which are committed to providing training, employment, and long‑term prospects for young people. Spending time in these spaces, you feel the optimism directly: the pride in the food, the warmth of the service, the sense that these aren’t just restaurants or cafés, but stepping stones to a more secure future.
Cambodia carries its history with honesty and dignity, but it’s not defined by it. Everywhere we went, we saw resilience, creativity, and a determination to move forward. There is so much good happening here, and so many reasons to feel hopeful about what comes next. I really hope that I get a chance to go back one day.
